Stadio Olimpico is Italy’s second-largest stadium and one of its most iconic. Located in the Foro Italico complex on the banks of the River Tiber, it serves as the shared home of AS Roma and SS Lazio. With a capacity of around 70,000, it is a venue of immense historical and cultural significance. But it is also a place defined by division. Few stadiums in Europe embody the dynamics of rivalry quite like the Olimpico.
History and Architecture
The stadium’s origins date back to the Fascist era, when construction began in the 1930s as part of Mussolini’s plan for a grand sports complex. Initially named the Stadio dei Cipressi, it was completed in phases and renamed the Stadio dei Centomila (Stadium of the Hundred Thousand). It finally became the Stadio Olimpico in time for the 1960 Summer Olympics.
A major renovation for the 1990 FIFA World Cup modernised the stadium significantly. The running track was retained, limiting sightlines for football, but the infrastructure was improved to meet international standards. The four stands – Curva Nord, Curva Sud, Tribuna Tevere, and Tribuna Monte Mario – form an elliptical bowl, offering a striking but somewhat detached view of the pitch due to the athletics track.
Shared Home, Divided Loyalties
Unlike most major European cities, Rome has two top-flight teams that share the same stadium, yet maintain a deep mutual hostility. The Curva Sud is traditionally occupied by Roma’s ultras, while Lazio fans dominate the Curva Nord. These sections do not merely support; they perform. Each club’s identity is shaped by the tifosi in these stands, with elaborate choreographies, flares, banners, and chants that often reference history, politics, and local pride.
While the stadium changes in surface detail depending on who is the home team, it remains physically neutral. There are no fixed emblems, colours, or design elements specific to either club. This has made it feel impermanent or even impersonal to many fans, a borrowed stage rather than a spiritual home.
Matchday Experience
The matchday experience at the Olimpico varies significantly depending on which club is hosting. For Roma games, the streets leading to the stadium are filled with red and yellow scarves, flags, and chants. Lazio matches bring a wave of light blue, eagle imagery, and echoes of older Roman symbolism. The journey through the Foro Italico, lined with marble statues and fascist-era architecture, is part of the ritual.
Public transport access is not ideal. The closest metro station, Ottaviano, is a long walk from the stadium. On matchdays, fans usually rely on trams and buses, which are often overcrowded. Many locals prefer scooters or park in the nearby residential areas and walk in.
Inside, the atmosphere builds as kickoff approaches. Despite the limitations of the running track, the intensity of the Curvas compensates. The acoustics can be uneven, but the spectacle is powerful. The Ultras lead chants, wave enormous banners, and produce a visual and emotional display unmatched in most other Italian cities.
Facilities inside the stadium are basic compared to newer venues. Food and drink options are limited, and queues for toilets can be long. Nonetheless, the passion of the supporters creates a sense of occasion. For tourists, it is a raw and authentic football experience. For locals, it is about identity, pride, and defiance.
The Derby della Capitale
When Roma and Lazio meet, the stadium transforms into a cauldron. The Derby della Capitale is known for its hostility, noise, and political undertones. Security is heavy, and fans are strictly segregated. The choreography and taunting reach another level. Flares, smoke bombs, and banners referencing decades of rivalry are part of the ritual.
Derbies often define seasons, even if trophies are not at stake. Victory in the derby has bragging rights that resonate far beyond the stadium. The tension is palpable, both in the stands and across the city.
Future and Uncertainty
Both Roma and Lazio have long expressed interest in leaving the Olimpico for their own purpose-built grounds. Roma came closest with the proposed Tor di Valle project, but bureaucratic delays and political resistance stalled progress. A new plan was submitted for a stadium in the Pietralata district, with a more modern design and club-specific branding. Lazio, meanwhile, has floated several proposals over the years, none of which have gained serious momentum.
Until either club builds a new home, the Olimpico will continue to host both. UEFA matches, Italy national team fixtures, and events like the Coppa Italia final will also remain part of its calendar.
Takeaway
Stadio Olimpico is not just a stadium. It is a symbol of shared space and entrenched division. The architecture may be impersonal, and the matchday logistics imperfect, but the cultural weight it carries is immense. Whether lit in giallorosso or celeste, the Olimpico represents the heart of football in the Eternal City, where pride is always contested and never settled.
